This weekend the surf was on! Friday after work a friend and I met with Marcos who would drive with us to Seignosse on the Atlantic coast. We took the motorway which would lead us first to the south and then westwards with the Pyreneans on our left. It was quite different than when I was going surfing in Australia as first we were fewer people, second I didn’t had my surfboard with me, third no big white sharks and fourth it was warm! The board computer of Marcos BMW showed 26° and it was sunny! By the way it’s end of October!
After we arrived at the surf villa, led by an Austrian (Lando), who dedicated his life to surfing, I got a board (a 7,8 foot of plastic) which was not like my board but showed the following days, that it would do the job. We put on our wetsuit and headed down to the beach. We where joined by Maria who Lived/worked at the surf villa. The conditions were ok, pretty easy to get out but with a big crowd already out there and as it was the first time I surfed after Australia I only got few chances and did scored only one wave. Though I managed to get up it was a pretty late take-off and I headed straight towards the beach.
We then headed back where we met Mark, Kai and Christian (all working at AIRBUS, too and had a great dinner.
The next day a big swell was announced, to big for the open beaches and we had to go to Cap Breton. Arriving at the beach I realized fast, that the waves were too big and too crowed for me so took out my camera (I know these conditions from Australia). While Lando and Marcos had a go and scored some pretty nice waves, Maria, Kai, Mark and me watched them and took photos and videos. Christian tried to surf, too but Christian doesn’t like crowds and the waves were to steep for him. For most of the others the waves were too big. In the evening the waves on another close-by beach got better and I tried to get some waves there. It was much crowded and especially the long-boarder took off early and it was sometimes hard to get out of their way. Near sunset some of the surfers went off and so I had my go. I was pretty close at 2 or 3 waves but had only one or two straight ones. Anyway it was great to be out on the board at sunset.
On Sunday we chilled out till the afternoon, we had another sunny day with 28°C but the waves where still too big. We first went to a local skateboard ground and Marcos showed that the surfboard wasn’t the only board he was good on. Maria and Mark had a go, too and I took the pictures. Later we wanted to try to get some waves on the bodyboard but after only a few tries we resigned. We then had a bit fun on the beach: Maria was put into hole and we covered her with sand. After that we swam a bit in the shorebreak. Back at the villa Maria prepared another great meal and while eating we all came to the conclusion that it was a great weekend. Little after we said goodbye and headed back to Toulouse, While I’m sitting in the car I’m writing these lines and I’m looking forward to get to my bed and to get some sleep…
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